Nostalgia is salient character of today, that it would be useless to deny. The grunge Hedi Slimane for Saint-Laurent, the shock stronger than the Paris fashion week, is nostalgic, despite the veneer of modernity abrasive: carbon copy of an aesthetic revolution – flannel shirts and dresses baby – and behavioral detonated winds and more years ago, and since then has become permanent way of being of the underground, a celebration of the inventive crude laissez-faire.
Far more revolutionary, but infinitely more subtle, there are grace and dignity, quality of real seditious. “We imagined a figure of a woman gentle and severe, inspired by Flemish painting and the subtle connections that it has with the contemporary, not the celebration of femininity quivering and composed,” said Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli just before the show Valentino, one of their most successful. “The message is playing with fashion and surprising reinventing ceaselessly.” The charm and magic of the collection, with its white-collar Calvinists dresses of embroidered leather, the grounds of the Delft pottery, necklines from medieval delicacy and ethereal colors, it’s all in the gap that separates vibrant sensuality and shyness. Here seduces you with what you do not show, but what is hidden, even if the legs are often naked body, just revealed, flutters.
A globe pierced by huge flags logoed: as always Chanel set creates great atmosphere. Fact that this season, as a journey of a supersonic jet capable of doing the rounds of the orbit in a few minutes, it is dynamic, martial. Rock, even, because the design of the Madame Karl Lagerfeld is bringing Chanel to her daughter. The classic Mademoiselle Coco are made into slices and put back together in a game of counterpoints the quality edgy, to use a fashionable anglismo that the vocabulary is an expression of value. The skirts are shorter, the legs are wrapped in stockings Parisian paint or leather and sparkles abound: it is at once rich rebel.